Build a 3D printer - Part 13: Software
Our 3D printer is finished, but we still can not use it until we program the Arduino board with software that will control our printer. There are several options for the firmware. I have chosen Marlin.
Build a 3D printer - Part 12: Power supply
After hooking up of all the connections to the RAMPS 1.4 board we will need to provide power to the board. The standard 5V output of the USB connector is only sufficient to power the Arduino and the LCD display, so we will need external power. The minimum power that needs to be provided is 12V x 20A (240W). But just to be sure we will use a 12V x 30A (360W) power supply.
Build a 3D printer - Part 11: Electronics
The brain of our 3D printer is the RAMPS 1.4 controller with Arduino MEGA 2560 board. In this part we will describe how to connect it to various components of our printer.
Build a 3D printer - Part 10: LCD Screen
To view the status of the printing progress you need a screen. For this 3D printer project I have used LCD 12864 display.
Build a 3D printer - Part 9: Heated bed
For the 3D prints to be able to stick to the printing bed, it needs to be heated. For this purpose we need to add a heated bed to our printer.
Build a 3D printer - Part 8: Endstops
The stepper motors must know when they have reached the limits of an axis. For this purpose we use endstops.
Build a 3D printer - Part 7: Extruder
We have now finished building our frame and one of the last mechanical parts that is left to assemble is the extruder.
Build a 3D printer - Part 6: X-axis
In this part we will focus on the X-axis, which is the most complicated axis of the printer. The X-axis is in direct connection to the Z-axis and it also supports the extruder.
Build a 3D printer - Part 5: Z-axis
Now that we have built the frame and& the Y-axis is operational, we can focus on the Z-axis. This will allow to lift the extruder and print new layers. As the layers can be 0.1 mm in thickness we will need a stepper motor that is capable to turning in small steps.
Build a 3D printer - Part 4: Frame support
The 6 mm aluminum frame cutout can now be mounted on the base of our frame. We could leave it as is, but adding the extra 10 mm threaded rod supports will give it that extra stability. The extra rods will also give us place to mount other additions to the printer.