The extruder is the heart of the 3D printer. It spews filament at the correct temperate through the heated nozzle.
The X and Z axes are intertwined together and it is a good idea to assemble them in one session.
In this blog series, I will cover the build of my Prusa MK3S 3D printer clone. My goal is to reduce the costs of the original while keeping the quality as high as possible.
This is a CNC 3018 Pro router. It can be bought for around 150 euros from various online resellers. It comes unassembled. In this tutorial I will first do the unboxing and then share with you my challenges during the assembly of this CNC router.
This is a Magnetic print bed that can be installed on a 3D printer for better adhesion and also so your finished prints can be easily removed. A while back I installed a similar print bed on my main 3D printer, but did not document it apart from some posts on Twitter. In this post I will cover the installation in more detail.
To house my set of MiSTer PCBs boards, which are: IO Board v5.6, SDRAM extra slim (XS), USB Hub v2.1 connected with USB Bracket with L-shaped connector, I wanted to 3D print a case. Unfortunately I could not find a design one that met all my needs, so I decided to remix existing Thingiverse designs and combine them into this case.
It is easy to mod your 3D printer to become a laser engraver / cutter. All you need is a laser module. The one that I have used had a power of 2500mW, which is enough to engrave and cut thin sheets of plywood.
Cyclops hotend has two filament inputs and merges them into one output. My Prusa i3 clone already had a Chimera extruder, but I was curious about the single nozzle solution.